Since there was no luck in getting the engine turned over it was time to get the engine out and mounted on the engine stand. As the disappointment from not being able to take a ride this summer/fall fades away I realize that this is for the better. I will be able to clean/repair/rebuild this engine to a state that will be fitting to go into the car once it is done.
The first thing I did was to remove the ignition coil. I took a few pictures to be able to remember which wire goes where. This is pretty easy to remove. It could probably stay but since I am going to take everything out for rebuilding it may as well come out now. I kinda knew what the coil did but wanted to know a little more. So …
An ignition coil (also called a spark coil) is an induction coil in an automobile’s ignition system which transforms the battery’s 12 volts (6 volts in some older vehicles) to the thousands of volts (20 to 30 thousand volts or more) needed to spark the spark plugs. Some coils have an internal resistor to reduce the voltage and some rely on a resistor wire or an external resistor to reduce the voltage from the cars 12 volt wiring flowing into the coil. The wire which goes from the ignition coil to the distributor and the wires which go from the distributor to each of the spark plugs are called spark plug wires or high tension leads. – Wikipedia
Next was the bottom body panel for the engine compartment. This was a few screws with washers and the two piece panel came out easily. There was a little bit of rust through on the exhaust side of the panel but it shouldn’t be a big pain to repair.
The exhaust came out next. It would have been just as easy to take the mounting brackets off at the engine block but I opted to to just remove the exhaust from the brackets. This way, I will have a couple of more options for hand holds when man handling it out. The exhaust is one unit from the connection to the head all the way to the tailpipe. This makes for an easy removal but a new unit is $227. Hopefully I will be able to be cleaned it up and reuse it.
A couple of bolts and the fuel pump will come free. I was going to leave this on but thought better of it when I realized that one slip and the weight of the engine would likely ruin it. I have learned over the years that when you get that sneaking suspicion of something it is best to deal with it. There is nothing worse than thinking you should do something, not doing it, then breaking something because you didn’t do it.
Now keep in mind that the process that I am going through is now exactly how either of the two books I have tell how to do it. They both want you to take the engine out as one unit and then tear it down. I had already pulled the top end off, so at this point for me, this was the best option. Especially considering that I was going for a complete engine rebuild. I wanted all of the components out and separated for cleaning/repairing/rebuilding.
I had the driver’s side tore down and now it was time for the passenger’s side. Or as I like to call it now, the wet side. This would be a good time to cover your floor with rags or carpet pieces or whatever you want to catch the coolant in. I had drained it out but there was still some fluid inside the case and hoses.
The first thing to come off was the generator/alternator. A couple of nuts and it is free enough to remove the belts and then it just pulls out. It looks pretty decent. It will need a good cleaning and testing.
I pulled the bottom radiator hose off the bottom of the water pump and emptied what I could into a bucket. There is a bracket that helps to keep the fan shroud in place that is held on by two bolts. Disconnect where it bolts into the shroud because when you pull the water pump out the fan will come with it leaving the shroud on the radiator. I then removed the gas vapor filter to facilitate the removal of the water pump and radiator that was going to follow. I think the filter will need to be replaced. I think it is full of charcoal and helps with the smell of gas fumes. Lastly, the bolts that hold the water pump to the block need to be removed. If you have a 903cc there are four bolts. If you have the 843cc then there are only three. This is also a wet endeavor. There will still be a little bit of coolant in the block channels and in the water pump so take care. Once all of the bolts are out it should just pull away.
The shroud is held in place by a big wire ring clamp that holds the rubber shroud to the radiator. Once that is off there are just four small bolts at the corners of the radiator that hold it to the firewall and it will pull off. This, I have to say, is where i broke my first bolt. Bottom right bolt of the radiator. I have been pretty lucky to this point. I will start using the blaster again on the hardware before loosening.
Once the radiator was out the only thing left is the starter unit and the engine block. The starter comes out after taking off three nuts and a little fidgeting back and forth to free it from the teeth of the flywheel.
There are four bolts that connect the engine block to the transmission and come out fairly easily. To loosen the top two I had to lower the engine a little on the jack to get an angle where I could get the ratchet and socket on them.
I thought that it would pull right off but it didn’t. I breaks free of the transmission about 3/8 of an inch but no more. When I pulled it toward the back of the car, the car moved a bit toward me but the block did not come free. I had hoped to get it on the engine stand tonight. I don;t think that will happen. I will have to go over the manuals one more time to see if there is something I am missing. I may just need an extra set of hands for this part.
I am sure it is better to go slow and sure rather than to force issues like this. It is a learning process after all!